The illusive 120 Minute IPA |
Two days before I was due to fly to Colorado the Mayor
tweeted that they would be tapping a single keg of the
über rare and highly
regarded Dogfish Head 120 minute IPA, a 15% ABV
hop and malt monster. This elusive beer is only brewed a few times a year, and
the ABV can often rise up to almost 20%
depending on the batch, as the name suggests the wort is continuously hopped
whilst being boiled for two hours before being dry hopped in the fermenter every
day for a month and then aged for a further month on whole leaf hops, epic. I
texted my Dad about this tapping immediately, he’s a huge fan of the 90 minute
IPA and I know he’d been seeking a taste of the 120 pretty much since he moved
to Colorado over two years ago. At 6am whilst sat in the Heathrow airport departure lounge I received a drunken phone call
from my Dad, it sounded like he might have emptied the entire keg by himself
and predictably the keg did not last the night so I assumed that I would not be
trying this beer on this particular trip, oh well, there's plenty of great beer in Fort Collins I thought.
I was more than halfway through my whistle stop week in Fort
Collins and Dad and I still hadn’t hit the Mayor for a
few beers, we finally made it in on Sunday lunchtime and found ourselves a seat
at the bar as we usually do. To my delight I immediately spotted Russian River
Blind Pig IPA, a beer I’d been dying to taste for a while, suddenly not getting
hold of any Dogfish 120 didn’t seem so bad. I enjoyed the Russian River IPA, it
was tart and bitter with a dry citrus finish but it was a little underwhelming,
I guess this is the danger of hype but it was at least very drinkable. My Dad,
who had stated that he fancied a light lunchtime beer plumped for a Mad River Steelhead
Double IPA which was the antithesis of a light lunchtime beer. It was rich,
bitter, loaded with citrus and tropical fruits and had that signature chewy
malt character that typifies the style, I enjoyed having a few sips of this
beer before my Dad opted to add a little water. Amazingly adding the water
brought all of the fruit and bitterness from the hops to the forefront of the
palate, just like adding a few drops of water to a great scotch the beer came
to life, this is definitely something I plan to experiment with again in the
future.
As we finished our pizzas and decided on our next beer
Kevin very kindly invited us on a tour of the cellar, Dad opted for a sublime
Hop 15 from Port Brewing which was one of the best beers I tasted on the entire
trip, in fact I’m kicking myself for not bringing a bottle of it back with me.
I opted for a Great Divide Belgian Style Yeti, a version of one of my all time
favourite imperial stouts fermented with Belgian yeast. It was certainly the
most funky of all the Yetis I’ve tried but I actually found that the flavours
from the yeast subdued the delicious chocolate and coffee rich malts and the
bitter finishing hops and despite it being a great beer was probably my least
favourite of all the Yetis so far. We followed Kevin down a set of stairs at
the back of the bar as he told us a little about it’s history and gestured
towards a long purpose built cold room where all of the kegs were safely
stored. Before we ventured inside I was expecting a tangled, chaotic mass of
pipework carrying the multitude of beers to their respective taps but what I saw before me was one of
the most high tech, intricate beer serving and storage systems I had ever seen.
The kegs were lined up as neatly as soldiers with light
beers at the furthest end of the room gradually getting darker in colour as it
reached the porters and stouts at the end which we were standing. Each keg line
was electronically tagged so they can see how many pints are being served from
each keg and when it will need replacing. The Mayor has an impressive policy on
it’s beer, when a keg is thirty days old it is taken off regardless of how much is
left and the lines are cleaned every time a fresh keg is tapped, regardless of
whether or not the same beer is going straight back on afterwards. When a new keg is
tapped the giant projectors behind the bar automatically update with the beer
that’s just become available and a tweet is sent updating followers in real
time. It’s an incredibly efficient and clever system that was developed by
Kevin himself, if this is the future of specialist beer bars then the futures a
very bright one indeed!
The Mayors immaculately arranged guts |
Near the end of the tour I mention to Kevin about how I was
pretty gutted to have missed the tapping of the Dogfish Head 120 by a mere
forty eight hours. As Dad and I sit back at the bar to finish our drinks Kevin
disappears into the back and returns to present me with a bottle of beer with the
only condition being that I have to drink it on the premises. It was of course
a bottle of that elusive elixir, 120 minute IPA, predictably I struggled to
contain my excitement and wanted to open it there and then but Dad and I
sensibly decided to come back the following evening, which would be my last of this
trip and toast the end of my holiday with this rare bottle.
So the very next evening we returned to the Mayor of Old
Town and wasting no time opened the bottle straight away. We shared half of the
bottle each and poured it into large brandy snifter style glassware. The hazy,
auburn liquid lolled lazily around the glass, the consistency was viscous and
the boozy aromas could be easily inhaled from more than a foot away. Despite
the high alcohol content the beer still managed to produce a halo of foam which
lingered for the entire length of time it took me to enjoy this beer. After
giving it a good swill I stuck my nose in long enough for those high alcohol
aromas to separate and evolve, sherry was my immediate thought but after
another sniff I decided that it was more like a rich white wine mixed with
stewed prunes and dates. The vinous aroma translated beautifully onto the
palate but upon tasting my first thought was that I found it very difficult to
describe this liquid as a beer.
It was more wine than beer with those sherry and white wine
notes dominating but at the finish the hops kick in providing a huge tangerine
tartness rather than a bitterness. The tart fruit flavours from the hops seemed
to linger for an age after swallowing and a nice warm trail of alcohol lined my
throat making it incredibly satisfying to drink. As a beer drinker, I
immediately decided that the 90 minute IPA was more to my preference as in the
120 minute the huge malts and alcohol levels almost over saturate the natural
bitterness of the hops but there was no doubting that this was a stunningly
crafted beverage, however you choose to define it.
It was an honour and a privilege to try this beer especially
as it was done in great company and in one of my favourite bars. Kevin, I’d
like to thank you once again for the incredible hospitality shown by yourself
and your team, the tour and most importantly the chance for this beer geek to
try an incredible beer and boast about it on his blog, I’ll be back in the
Mayor real soon!
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